Feeding the crocs

One of my friends lives out in the country and has the distinct provilege of having a croc enclosure in his backyard! How many people do you know who keep crocs as "pets"? Granted, he's renting the house and didn't totally choose to have those crocs in his backyard, but they came with the house!
From the stories told about those crocs, eggs were found over 10 years ago on the shore of Lake Malawi by the owners of the house who picked them up, incubated them and saw over 10 crocs hatch! Out of that bunch only three remain!
But boy, are those things intimidating or what? They are kept in an enclosure with a pond, bushes and mud, the perfect environment to lounge in the sun all day and take a quick dip when too hot!
The crocs are fed about four kilos of meat once a week. After rattling the gate to the enclosure, their keeper aims and throws the food towards their mouths!
Feeding time is truly a sight to be seen, with those three predators lurking in the water and moving so quickly to catch their food! As I am watching this feeding, all I can think is that I am glad those three reptiles are on the other side of the fence and that I hope none of them will escape, again, as it seems one did a runner once, only to be caught quickly and safely put back into the enclosure!
Yet another first in Malawi: feeding your pet crocs ;-)

What on earth?

What on earth are those things? Simply the wings of flying ants! Those insects just appear out of nowhere, fly in swarms and, before they actually get used to flying, loose their wings and turn into crawling ants!
Finding the list wings in the morning when you open your door is quite baffling, at least the first time!

Yet another critter

It is quite common to see lizards, geckos and all kinds and sizes of a ants. Lately we've also seen "flying ants" who loose their wings mid flight and are an extremely sought after delicacy! Just the other day, at the market, they were being sold roasted- right next to the cucumbers!

This one pictured right above, though, still left me scratching my head. It's the prettiest beetle I've seen in a long time. Its blue and yellow shell may not be the best camouflage but it does pop on photos!
If you know its name or can find it, let me know. I've done a quick search, without too much success!

A Green, please!

Go to any bar or restaurant and you can order a Green. So what is this famous Green? It's a bottle of ordinary Carlsberg beer, brewed in Malawi. Officially opened on 14th December 1968 , Carlsberg Malawi Brewery Limited (CMBL) was the first Carlsberg brewery outside Denmark. Up to this day, it is still the only brewing and beer packaging facility in Malawi and still owns a 97 percent market share! It's a
Complete Carlsberg monopoly in the country.
Being from Belgium myself you'd think I am a beer connoisseur.. I like a beer once in a while but not the ordinary beer. I'm more of a Jupiler, Kriek or Hoegaarden type of girl.
Nonetheless, I've tried drinking a Green and really just don't care for it. I think for one it has to do with what I perceive an inconsistency quality.
Even the bottles are inconsistent! Check out the photo- same bar, same crate, two bottle designs!
Most people here do enjoy their Green... Unless there is a shortage, which has happened a few times in the past year! Those shortages don't make people happy.
So next time you're in Malawi, grab a Green, have a sundowner with friends and enjoy the Warm Heart of Africa!

Ant invasion

Since I moved into my new place I've been fighting ants wanting to come hang in my kitchen. There is a door directly going outside and the problem is that it's completely flush to the outside. So ants don't have any obstacle preventing them from joining me in the house.
After trying to use sprays I had to resort to the heavy stuff: poison chalk and killer powder! I wasn't sure they were going to work, but boy was I wrong.
I treated the entire area almost 3 weeks ago. Since then everyday I am brushing off dead ants! It's like it's a never ending supply!!
While I was gone for 6 days on a business trip no one cleaned up the ants. Check out of the photos. They are pretty graphic!!
Âmes sensibles, s'abstenir!!

Obstructed view

This morning on our way to school, the children and I saw this man, carrying the biggest load of hay. It was so big you couldn't even see his head.

There's something to say about sunsets!

Ever since I've been here sunsets have taken on a life of their own. I marvel at their beauty and magnificence. It doesn't matter where you are, it will be gorgeous. This picture here was taken today on my walk home from work.... A picture is worth a thousand words, so enjoy!

Police escort

Early early this morning I flew back to Lilongwe after a quick business trip to Madagascar. I was aboard the "Nairobi- Lusaka- Lilongwe- Nairobi Express" a night flight that takes forever. Upon arrival at Kamuzu International Airport, my driver wasn't there to pick me up. A quick call confirmed that he was asleep in bed, but he quickly said he'd be on his way. So I had to wait about 20 minutes for him to get there. At 1:00 in the afternoon the airport arrival is full of activity, but at 2:00 in the morning it's quite dead and empty. I sat down on a bench and hoped he would arrive quickly.
Upon seeing me on the bench a couple of police asked me if I needed help. I told them my driver was on the way. So what did they do?
They just sat themselves on the bench next to me and waited with me until the driver arrived. They didn't have to do that, but knew how empty the place was. It was a reassuring and very welcomed move on their part. Zikomo Malawi Police!

Land and Lakes Café

Have an hour to spare on a Saturday morning? Go check out the new location of Land and Lakes Safari and have a morning tea at their little cafe. Nice menu, good apple pie... And very fashionable teapot cozies!
It's located on Laws avenue right by old town.
Enjoy

That's just a big ol' cat!

This afternoon the children and I went to a Braai at the wildlife centre. After eating and visiting with friends we went for the tour of the animals. Our guide Winnie was amazing. She went all the way to where Bella, the one eyed lioness was hiding and, by calling her name, had Bella follow her all the way to where we were all standing. Bella is an old lioness who was rescued from bad treatment in Roumania. She had a cataract and completely lost her eye. Anyways today Bella was following Winnie, purring as she moved along the fence and even rolling on the ground, hoping for some good belly rubs. That was probably one of the coolest animal encounters we have had. My son Alex was standing ther, mesmerized by Bella and said it best:"she's just a big ol'cat, that Bella!". One moment to treasure for sure!

Gallantry

Funny how little things mean a lot. This early evening I was walking home and past three guys chatting. One was holding his bike as he was visiting with his friends. Upon seeing me pass them, this man lifted his hat and told me good evening! I know it sounds old fashioned but that gesture was cool and so not done anymore. How many guys actually still wear hats?

What's that on the ground?

Waking is one of my favorite ways of seeing a city, as it gives you a direct feel for what the locals see and how walkers interact with the city, its streets, vehicles and people.
Lilongwe is a rather pedestrian friendly city as its the most use way of getting around and most streets, although they don't have "official" sidewalks, have much trodden dirt paths used as sidewalks.
Unfortunately trash does lie around and a closer look turns out quite surprising items, the most surprising one being the little alcohol one gulp packets. They litter every street.
So yes, it is possible to get one shot of your favorite spirit on the go and to swallow it on the side of the steer! Different for sure but I have seen stranger!

Balancing act

Oftentimes when riding or walking around town you will see bicycles transporting various items, ranging from baskets, fire wood, chickens or even live goats. Mind you, the goats are attached on a narrow plank, which is then attached to the bike.
This morning I saw what appeared to be the heaviest load I'd seen being moved on a bike. This guy had bravely ( or foolishly) strapped 4 super heavy charcoal bags to the back of his bike. His load was so heavy as well as extremely unstable that he couldn't ride the bike and was pushing it instead. Je also managed to slow down traffic as cars could not see what was directly coming and has to swerve around him.
That's the way a lot of goods are transported within a city, village or even between close- by villages. The bicycle is THE most used mode of transportation in the country, for easily understandable reasons: a bike is rather inexpensive to purchase and to maintain, it doesn't require petrol or diesel (and we all know these can be hell to come by at times) and is easily kept inside the houses, away from a potential thief!
I will be on the lookout for more bikes transporting a variety of items to snap their pic and post them here!

Hole in the wall

As you walk around Lilongwe's residential neighborhoods you will often notice holes in the outside walls surrounding properties. That's the Malawi equivalent to a "On The Run", Circle K or Night and Day. They are our little neighborhood convenience stores offering a variety of goods, ranging from fresh eggs, bread, margarine, oil, lightbulbs, soft drinks, mobile phone refills..
More than once they've been lifesavers for me, when in the middle of a recipe I realize I'm missing a key ingredient. Or
When the night guard comes and asks for a new light bulb, or for when you really want a soft drink but there are none in the house... Anyways you get the picture! They are just a few steps away, offering a convenient way to avoid driving into town for one ingredient!

Building up the walls

Is this a sign of the times? One of my neighbors is having workers increase the heights of his exterior walls, not by much but by just enough to prevent a wall jump!
When you walk around and really start looking, most of the walls that were originally 6 feet high are now 8 feet tall and with additional barbwire on top.
So by tomorrow the bricklayers' job will be done and the neighbors will be better protected against intruders!
As simple as that!

No more queues

After a quick holiday in Europe I've been back in Malawi a little over 3 weeks now and there has been a big noticeable difference: there aren't any diesel and petrol queues in town anymore. The Tank has a full tank and all that was required was me driving up to the pump and tell the attendant to "fill it up". After the shortages we had last year there is no description for the feeling of being able to fill up whenever you want. Little things like this truly make living in Africa easier. Now if only the same applied to the bank and its
ATM!

Sunday Jazz

Looking for a nice way to wind down a busy weekend? Head to the Four Seasons complex on Presidential Drive and spend a couple of hours listening to cool jazz and contemporary music played by a live band. This Sunday the crowd was surprisingly large and dynamic, the band played a mixture of contemporary tunes and were even joined by a singer for several numbers.

The complex sets up chairs and mats for the audience. The terrace at Chameleon's is also open. Sip on a Green or an MGT and order a pizza from the bar. I personally think that Chamelon's pizza is the best in Lilongwe.
And like a good neighborhood hangout, there is always someone you know to catch up with.
Spending a couple of hours there is a great close of the weekend and gives you energy for the week ahead.

One Year

I cannot believe I've already been in Lilongwe for a whole year now. So much has happened: one school year, one president death, two currency devaluations, many fun evenings, one long diesel shortage, many market shopping and a few trips to beautiful Lake Malawi.
So I've now started year 2 and plan on finally seeing more of this gorgeous country now that diesel is easier to come by.
For this morning I leave you with an inspiring sunrise photo taken a few days ago at Senga Bay.

White Night for the ladies!

Wow...Lilongwe survived a night with the ladies dressed in white!  Last Friday, J. and I had organized a night out for a bunch of colleagues and friends on the town.  We had rented a bus, booked a restaurant and ended up having a ball.  The theme was "Dress in White" and many did go out, completely dressed in white.  We all looked great, and I'm not biaised there! 
This whole thing started by my purchase of white linen trousers at the second hand market.  I saw J. that day and said "we need to go out so I can wear my new purchase" and there was the White Night being launched. 
We started the night with a bus pickup in the parking lot at work, then went to the restaurant La Causerie, in Capital city.  We had thankfully contacted the owner and asked for a buffet.  That was a smart move as we ended up, all 27 of us, seated around a HUGE table. They had been warned that a bunch of ladies dressed in white were invading the place!  The buffet allowed us to pick and choose from the proposed dishes.  It also helped with settling the bill at the end of the meal.  We just had a grand time, visiting and chatting away from our regular work environment.  A lot of laughter about bits and nothings was taking place.
The second stop of the evening was at Harry's Bar, a popular haunt in the expat as well as local community.  It's mostly a wooden shak of sorts, with a long bar, serving all kinds of drink.  There is some loud music playing and loads of people standing.  I like to go to Harry's.  Some faces are familiar, some are waiting to be met, and you always bump into someone you know.  That probably would not happen in any other city where there are hundreds of bars..  One of the good points of living here!
The hours went by quickly and before we knew it, it was almost 2:00 am and most wanted to go home!  So, the bus did a few drop off, then on to the next stop, Diplomats in Old Town.  I'd never gone there and did not know what to expect.  It's another bar/disco that was just recently renovated, but I don't care for all the ladies of the night frequenting the place...  The good point of that is that you can dance and not be bothered by guys!  The leftover few of us, only 5, spent a couple of hours there before heading out to Zanzi, another bar/disco.  Unfortunately, when we got there on the now mostly empty bus, the place looked deserted, no cars on the street....  so we opted for an "early" return home... 
Next time, we will have breakfast at Kiboko, after we "paint the town red"!

Welcome President Joyce Banda

After hours of uncertainty about whether democracy and its constitution were going to prevail, the vice president Joyce Banda was sworn in yesterday late afternoon as the president of the Republic of Malawi.  The swearing in ceremony was televised live and I was able to see it in a "public" place, which really made it real and enabled me to feel the public vibe.
My son Alex and I had spent a couple of hours with some friends at the Golf Club Pool.  On our way out, we heard some cheering and clapping.  So we all started running toward that noice and ended up in the golf club bar where the swearing in ceremony was transmitted live.
The crowd in the bar was not big, but the entire group was focused on that little TV screen, attentively listening to the officials.  You could hear clapping at some point.
When Joyce Banda stood up, held the Bible up high and was sworn in you could have heard a needle drop. 

I felt like I was witnessing history.  Joyce Banda is the first woman President, only the 4th president since Malawi gained its independence from the UK and is stepping into the Seat under unusual circumstances.  President Bingu's death was sudden, and its annoucement was not immediate, therefore raising rumors and speculations.  Reports were made that some members of government did not support the Vice President and alternate names were thrown to take over as president.   President Banda is also stepping into a heavily turmoiled economic situation with Malawi having lost support from the UK governement and other NGOs. 

It is to hope that the transition will be smooth, that president Banda will be able to guide the country in its next steps and that the decisions she makes will help the country and its people.

MSNBC article

Death of a President

Yesterday morning, as I was checking my emails, facebook and online news, I came across a shocker, the news that President Bingu had died.  After reading that particular article, I started looking around and could not completly figure out if his death was confirmed or just an internet rumor. 
It took a full 24 hours for the Malawian authorities to come forward and announce that indeed, president Bingu had died, after suffering a massive heart attack. 

This morning I came across the following article, an obituary fo "Mutharika, Malawi's flawed "economist-in-chief"."  It is quite to the point and does raise some interesting points about the current political and economical situation in the country.  An Obituary 

As I am typing this, there are long fuel lines all around towns, with some cars in line already for several days, hoping for a petrol delivery.  I just received an email from a fellow teacher, warning me to avoid a particular area of town, as "Petrol queue was very nasty near Santa Plaza this morning, an accident plus soldiers and police. The road was completely blocked. "  My Tank has less than a quarter tank of diesel and it seems near impossible to get diesel without staying in line for days, which I am not doing.

The newest queues I've seen around town are for SUGAR, of all things.  I personally use sugar when baking and that's about it.  But for the people of Malawi, sugar is one of the most important staples of their diet.  A cup of tea is not complete without at least 5 heaping tablespoons of sugar, so you are basically drinking tea with your sugar.  My staff goes through sugar like there is no tomorrow.  Lately, I've been limiting their sugar intake by resolving to hide the sugar I have.  It has happened before that I was preparing to bake something and only found one cup of sugar left in the 5 kgs bag!!!  Kind of feel bad about having to hide sugar, but it's the only way I can assure that the sugar will be there when I need it. 

As for president Bingu's death, the next 10 days will be a period of national mourning.  What will happen during this time will be watched by all people living in Malawi and by loads of outside organizations and countries.  I do sincerely hope that the transition period is seamless and uneventful and that the new President of Malawi (who according to the constitution should be the current vice-president Joyce Banda) reinstates the diplomatic links with the UK.  Also that the foreign aid that had been withdrawn comes back. 

Only the future will tell.  Keep Malawi in your thoughts for the next few weeks...

Critters of all kinds

Just a few of the critters that I've encountered around the neighborhood...  For those of you who know me, you also know that I don't particularly care for critters...  but I'm getting better at NOT screaming every time I see one!!  Some photos give you an idea of the size, usually using Emma or Alex's hand!  They are braver than I am, when it comes to touching or getting close to the critters!

Fresh water crab

Check out the BLUE tail

Termite hole

on the hood of my car

Ben's Turkey

Right above the shower stall!!!

Weekend at the Lake

Although Lake Malawi is rather close to Lilongwe, it was only my second time seeing it, due in major part to the fuel shortages we’ve experienced in the past few months.  But boy, was it nice.  The lake reminds me of the Caribbean Sea.  Beautiful beaches, water sports, clean bluish-greenish water.  Quite ideal spot…  and I’ve only been to Senga Bay, 20 kms from Salima and the closest spot to Lilongwe.  I’ve been told that there are way prettier places and spots South and North of Senga Bay…well maybe another time.

Our first night, we stayed at the Wheelhouse Marina campground with a nice secluded and private beach.  The kids enjoyed the variety of the beach, as rocks and other natural obstacles provided them with a variety of discovering grounds.  The snorkeling gear was also used to spot little fish, clams and whatever else was looming under water. 

We had set up the tent, except the tent fly (it is missing…must have been left behind somewhere in Botswana when the boys used in during Christmas break!!!) and were hoping for no rain.  Being in the rainy season, I was apprehensive and had told the kids that if it started raining, we would take all pillows and sleeping backs and move to the car!  Of course, less than an hour after we all fell asleep, I was awoken with a start by a drizzle, woke everybody and moved all our gear to the car.  Again, being the rainy season, I wasn’t sure how long and how heavy the rain would.  So, since the rain didn’t stop, I saw no other option than sleeping in the uncomfortably hot car with the window closed (as mosquitoes and malaria are always around at the lake)…quite an uncomfortable night ahead… 

That was without counting on the generosity of strangers!  A lady and her daughter had rented a cabin right behind our tent, heard the noise we caused, came outside to investigate and could not see us spend the night in the car….  So, they offered us the extra twin size bed in their cabin.  Emma, Alex and Ysabelle (Emma’s friend who was spending the weekend with us) slept on the twin size bed, under a mosquito net, while I crashed on the floor, in my sleeping bag, hoping that the OFF would keep mosquitoes at bay for the duration of the night! 

The next day, we met up with my colleague Bianca and spent the day at their cottage.  They actually have a long-term rental at the lake and rent one out of four cottages on one plot.  Other friends of hers rent the other three.  Since this was a long 3 day weekend, all cottages were occupied and more friends had even pitch their tents in the yard.  Since Lilongwe is a small expat community, I already knew most people there and the children found classmates and school friends to spend the day with.

  Oh, what fun they had!  Water skying, boat rides, noodle, …  plus a braii/bbq in the evening and plenty of sweets!  This was a great day for all of us… one that sets the bar REALLY high for the next time we go to the lake.  Hopefully the children will have forgotten how great a day in the sun and in the water they had – (like that’s likely to happen)  

Traditional hollowed tree trunk, used as a flotation device by Lake Malawi Fishermen.  They don't sit in it, but rather straddle the boat. 

Malawian Special

Got a new puppy last Saturday...breed unknown, but what's for sure is that she's a true full blooded Malawian Special, a mut of all kinds, predominantly of a brownish beige color.

We struggled with a name....going from Malou (dog in Chichewa) to Diesel (since I got to fill up on my way to pick her up) and finally settled on M'vula (Rain in Chichewa) since it's the rainy season and from what I understand, a particularly wet one this year...

So, there she is, the beautiful little M'vula...and if she continues at the rate she's eating right now, she will soon be the BIG M'vula!

Afternoon Rush-Hour

It's funny how sometimes the most ordinary sights make you giggle..  Monday late afternoon, Emine and I were walking home after a day of teaching, working, meeting and workshopping when we both were surprised by the number of people on the street.  It was past 5:00 PM and many of the workers were doing just like us, going back home after a hard day of work.
Since you are aware of the diesel and petrol issues we are facing, the commute, whenever possible, is done on foot...so the photo below illustrates just that...  the evening commute on Barron Avenue,  usually a relatively quiet side street in the neighborhood!

Photo taken by Emine

Filling up!

For the past several months, Malawi has been experiencing ups and downs in diesel and petrol deliveries, all due to the shortage of foreign exchange currencies to purchase these precious fossil fuels!  My big 85 liter tank has been running on pretty much empty for a while and I started walking more than driving to get to places.  Thankfully, the stores are only a quick 30-40 minutes walk, through the golf course and the side streets.  

Last Friday, with my friend Aly and my boy Alex we took the afternoon to go shop and brought back some groceries...  The next afternoon, I had organized several errands, a puppy pick-up and post-sleepover pick up, all driving the Tank, again with Alex and Aly.  We quickly stop at Crossroads, a little shopping area, looking for a specific item when Aly needs to get to the ATM to get some Kwatchas.  So, I'm standing there, looking at the gas station and all of a sudden, realize the guys are actually pumping, filling up big trucks!  OMG, they are pumping diesel and there is NO lines!!!!  I couldn't believe it.  Before rushing to my car, I actually did check with the attendants to make darn sure they had diesel.

What a RUSH!  I rushed to my car, cranked it up and quickly drove to the filling station.  I just pulled up and stopped the Tank right next to a pump, got out, unlocked the little door and there it was, the precious diesel, filling up my Tank's tank!  

I was ecstatic, even after dropping close to 20,000 MK (over $100) in the hands of the pump attendant!  Call me crazy....  ONLY in Africa!

Before leaving the station, I did spread the happiness by sending SMSs to all my buddies driving diesel.  The word spread fast around town.  Since Saturday, several deliveries were made.  Unfortunately, it looks like the drought has already returned and that there is no more diesel or petrol in town...  Until next time!