White Night for the ladies!

Wow...Lilongwe survived a night with the ladies dressed in white!  Last Friday, J. and I had organized a night out for a bunch of colleagues and friends on the town.  We had rented a bus, booked a restaurant and ended up having a ball.  The theme was "Dress in White" and many did go out, completely dressed in white.  We all looked great, and I'm not biaised there! 
This whole thing started by my purchase of white linen trousers at the second hand market.  I saw J. that day and said "we need to go out so I can wear my new purchase" and there was the White Night being launched. 
We started the night with a bus pickup in the parking lot at work, then went to the restaurant La Causerie, in Capital city.  We had thankfully contacted the owner and asked for a buffet.  That was a smart move as we ended up, all 27 of us, seated around a HUGE table. They had been warned that a bunch of ladies dressed in white were invading the place!  The buffet allowed us to pick and choose from the proposed dishes.  It also helped with settling the bill at the end of the meal.  We just had a grand time, visiting and chatting away from our regular work environment.  A lot of laughter about bits and nothings was taking place.
The second stop of the evening was at Harry's Bar, a popular haunt in the expat as well as local community.  It's mostly a wooden shak of sorts, with a long bar, serving all kinds of drink.  There is some loud music playing and loads of people standing.  I like to go to Harry's.  Some faces are familiar, some are waiting to be met, and you always bump into someone you know.  That probably would not happen in any other city where there are hundreds of bars..  One of the good points of living here!
The hours went by quickly and before we knew it, it was almost 2:00 am and most wanted to go home!  So, the bus did a few drop off, then on to the next stop, Diplomats in Old Town.  I'd never gone there and did not know what to expect.  It's another bar/disco that was just recently renovated, but I don't care for all the ladies of the night frequenting the place...  The good point of that is that you can dance and not be bothered by guys!  The leftover few of us, only 5, spent a couple of hours there before heading out to Zanzi, another bar/disco.  Unfortunately, when we got there on the now mostly empty bus, the place looked deserted, no cars on the street....  so we opted for an "early" return home... 
Next time, we will have breakfast at Kiboko, after we "paint the town red"!

Welcome President Joyce Banda

After hours of uncertainty about whether democracy and its constitution were going to prevail, the vice president Joyce Banda was sworn in yesterday late afternoon as the president of the Republic of Malawi.  The swearing in ceremony was televised live and I was able to see it in a "public" place, which really made it real and enabled me to feel the public vibe.
My son Alex and I had spent a couple of hours with some friends at the Golf Club Pool.  On our way out, we heard some cheering and clapping.  So we all started running toward that noice and ended up in the golf club bar where the swearing in ceremony was transmitted live.
The crowd in the bar was not big, but the entire group was focused on that little TV screen, attentively listening to the officials.  You could hear clapping at some point.
When Joyce Banda stood up, held the Bible up high and was sworn in you could have heard a needle drop. 

I felt like I was witnessing history.  Joyce Banda is the first woman President, only the 4th president since Malawi gained its independence from the UK and is stepping into the Seat under unusual circumstances.  President Bingu's death was sudden, and its annoucement was not immediate, therefore raising rumors and speculations.  Reports were made that some members of government did not support the Vice President and alternate names were thrown to take over as president.   President Banda is also stepping into a heavily turmoiled economic situation with Malawi having lost support from the UK governement and other NGOs. 

It is to hope that the transition will be smooth, that president Banda will be able to guide the country in its next steps and that the decisions she makes will help the country and its people.

MSNBC article

Death of a President

Yesterday morning, as I was checking my emails, facebook and online news, I came across a shocker, the news that President Bingu had died.  After reading that particular article, I started looking around and could not completly figure out if his death was confirmed or just an internet rumor. 
It took a full 24 hours for the Malawian authorities to come forward and announce that indeed, president Bingu had died, after suffering a massive heart attack. 

This morning I came across the following article, an obituary fo "Mutharika, Malawi's flawed "economist-in-chief"."  It is quite to the point and does raise some interesting points about the current political and economical situation in the country.  An Obituary 

As I am typing this, there are long fuel lines all around towns, with some cars in line already for several days, hoping for a petrol delivery.  I just received an email from a fellow teacher, warning me to avoid a particular area of town, as "Petrol queue was very nasty near Santa Plaza this morning, an accident plus soldiers and police. The road was completely blocked. "  My Tank has less than a quarter tank of diesel and it seems near impossible to get diesel without staying in line for days, which I am not doing.

The newest queues I've seen around town are for SUGAR, of all things.  I personally use sugar when baking and that's about it.  But for the people of Malawi, sugar is one of the most important staples of their diet.  A cup of tea is not complete without at least 5 heaping tablespoons of sugar, so you are basically drinking tea with your sugar.  My staff goes through sugar like there is no tomorrow.  Lately, I've been limiting their sugar intake by resolving to hide the sugar I have.  It has happened before that I was preparing to bake something and only found one cup of sugar left in the 5 kgs bag!!!  Kind of feel bad about having to hide sugar, but it's the only way I can assure that the sugar will be there when I need it. 

As for president Bingu's death, the next 10 days will be a period of national mourning.  What will happen during this time will be watched by all people living in Malawi and by loads of outside organizations and countries.  I do sincerely hope that the transition period is seamless and uneventful and that the new President of Malawi (who according to the constitution should be the current vice-president Joyce Banda) reinstates the diplomatic links with the UK.  Also that the foreign aid that had been withdrawn comes back. 

Only the future will tell.  Keep Malawi in your thoughts for the next few weeks...

Critters of all kinds

Just a few of the critters that I've encountered around the neighborhood...  For those of you who know me, you also know that I don't particularly care for critters...  but I'm getting better at NOT screaming every time I see one!!  Some photos give you an idea of the size, usually using Emma or Alex's hand!  They are braver than I am, when it comes to touching or getting close to the critters!

Fresh water crab

Check out the BLUE tail

Termite hole

on the hood of my car

Ben's Turkey

Right above the shower stall!!!

Weekend at the Lake

Although Lake Malawi is rather close to Lilongwe, it was only my second time seeing it, due in major part to the fuel shortages we’ve experienced in the past few months.  But boy, was it nice.  The lake reminds me of the Caribbean Sea.  Beautiful beaches, water sports, clean bluish-greenish water.  Quite ideal spot…  and I’ve only been to Senga Bay, 20 kms from Salima and the closest spot to Lilongwe.  I’ve been told that there are way prettier places and spots South and North of Senga Bay…well maybe another time.

Our first night, we stayed at the Wheelhouse Marina campground with a nice secluded and private beach.  The kids enjoyed the variety of the beach, as rocks and other natural obstacles provided them with a variety of discovering grounds.  The snorkeling gear was also used to spot little fish, clams and whatever else was looming under water. 

We had set up the tent, except the tent fly (it is missing…must have been left behind somewhere in Botswana when the boys used in during Christmas break!!!) and were hoping for no rain.  Being in the rainy season, I was apprehensive and had told the kids that if it started raining, we would take all pillows and sleeping backs and move to the car!  Of course, less than an hour after we all fell asleep, I was awoken with a start by a drizzle, woke everybody and moved all our gear to the car.  Again, being the rainy season, I wasn’t sure how long and how heavy the rain would.  So, since the rain didn’t stop, I saw no other option than sleeping in the uncomfortably hot car with the window closed (as mosquitoes and malaria are always around at the lake)…quite an uncomfortable night ahead… 

That was without counting on the generosity of strangers!  A lady and her daughter had rented a cabin right behind our tent, heard the noise we caused, came outside to investigate and could not see us spend the night in the car….  So, they offered us the extra twin size bed in their cabin.  Emma, Alex and Ysabelle (Emma’s friend who was spending the weekend with us) slept on the twin size bed, under a mosquito net, while I crashed on the floor, in my sleeping bag, hoping that the OFF would keep mosquitoes at bay for the duration of the night! 

The next day, we met up with my colleague Bianca and spent the day at their cottage.  They actually have a long-term rental at the lake and rent one out of four cottages on one plot.  Other friends of hers rent the other three.  Since this was a long 3 day weekend, all cottages were occupied and more friends had even pitch their tents in the yard.  Since Lilongwe is a small expat community, I already knew most people there and the children found classmates and school friends to spend the day with.

  Oh, what fun they had!  Water skying, boat rides, noodle, …  plus a braii/bbq in the evening and plenty of sweets!  This was a great day for all of us… one that sets the bar REALLY high for the next time we go to the lake.  Hopefully the children will have forgotten how great a day in the sun and in the water they had – (like that’s likely to happen)  

Traditional hollowed tree trunk, used as a flotation device by Lake Malawi Fishermen.  They don't sit in it, but rather straddle the boat. 

Malawian Special

Got a new puppy last Saturday...breed unknown, but what's for sure is that she's a true full blooded Malawian Special, a mut of all kinds, predominantly of a brownish beige color.

We struggled with a name....going from Malou (dog in Chichewa) to Diesel (since I got to fill up on my way to pick her up) and finally settled on M'vula (Rain in Chichewa) since it's the rainy season and from what I understand, a particularly wet one this year...

So, there she is, the beautiful little M'vula...and if she continues at the rate she's eating right now, she will soon be the BIG M'vula!

Afternoon Rush-Hour

It's funny how sometimes the most ordinary sights make you giggle..  Monday late afternoon, Emine and I were walking home after a day of teaching, working, meeting and workshopping when we both were surprised by the number of people on the street.  It was past 5:00 PM and many of the workers were doing just like us, going back home after a hard day of work.
Since you are aware of the diesel and petrol issues we are facing, the commute, whenever possible, is done on foot...so the photo below illustrates just that...  the evening commute on Barron Avenue,  usually a relatively quiet side street in the neighborhood!

Photo taken by Emine

Filling up!

For the past several months, Malawi has been experiencing ups and downs in diesel and petrol deliveries, all due to the shortage of foreign exchange currencies to purchase these precious fossil fuels!  My big 85 liter tank has been running on pretty much empty for a while and I started walking more than driving to get to places.  Thankfully, the stores are only a quick 30-40 minutes walk, through the golf course and the side streets.  

Last Friday, with my friend Aly and my boy Alex we took the afternoon to go shop and brought back some groceries...  The next afternoon, I had organized several errands, a puppy pick-up and post-sleepover pick up, all driving the Tank, again with Alex and Aly.  We quickly stop at Crossroads, a little shopping area, looking for a specific item when Aly needs to get to the ATM to get some Kwatchas.  So, I'm standing there, looking at the gas station and all of a sudden, realize the guys are actually pumping, filling up big trucks!  OMG, they are pumping diesel and there is NO lines!!!!  I couldn't believe it.  Before rushing to my car, I actually did check with the attendants to make darn sure they had diesel.

What a RUSH!  I rushed to my car, cranked it up and quickly drove to the filling station.  I just pulled up and stopped the Tank right next to a pump, got out, unlocked the little door and there it was, the precious diesel, filling up my Tank's tank!  

I was ecstatic, even after dropping close to 20,000 MK (over $100) in the hands of the pump attendant!  Call me crazy....  ONLY in Africa!

Before leaving the station, I did spread the happiness by sending SMSs to all my buddies driving diesel.  The word spread fast around town.  Since Saturday, several deliveries were made.  Unfortunately, it looks like the drought has already returned and that there is no more diesel or petrol in town...  Until next time!

Dzaleka Refugee Camp



This quote was on the blackboard in one of the preschool classrooms.  It broke my heart.

During a unit on architecture, the year 3 students wanted to see how houses can be build in an eco-friendly way, using the local resources and not requiring electricity powered tools. The partner of one of our teachers works at the Dzaleka Refugees Camp. The Dzaleka refugee camp is operated by the UN High Commission for Refugees and has been opened for almost 20 years, at first taking in refugees fromMozambique in the 1980s. Now the camp inhabitants mostly come from D.R. Congo, Rwanda, Burundi, Ethiopia, and Somalia. theonly refugee camp in Malawi where they also run an eco-friendly program, teaching the refugees how to build houses in such a manner. Since we had that connection, we were able to organize a visit. We also had started a partnership with the primary school there; having donated used leveled readers for their brand new library. So, the field trip was the occasion for our students to not only learn about architecture, but to see how the donated books were being used and the difference they would make to the students’ education.

When we arrived, having barely stepped out of the two buses, we were surrounded by a sea of school-aged children.  The kids were curious, greeted us, trying out some of their English on us.  Our students were quite intimidated by the attention.  Between the 6 adult chaperons, our 53 students were barely kept contained…  Our worry was to loose one, which could have happened real fast.  The camp children all wanted to see us, to look at us, to touch us, to shake our hands.  I don’t think I’d ever felt this claustrophobic in a crowd!  The longer we stood still, the narrower the circle of children became and the close our students huddled together.

We attended a welcoming ceremony during which the headmaster of the schools, wearing a formal suit and tie, thanked the students and the teachers of Bishop Mackenzie International School for the generous donation of books, and for us visiting the camp.   The situation was quite comical; the headmaster had a megaphone and was giving his speech, the crowd was huge and all around us, our students weren’t sure how to handle all the attention.  We had warned them that this may happen, but we had not anticipated such attraction!  We toured the brand new library, saw our donated books, even went into the teachers’ lounge where mostly men were planning their lessons, all dressed in full suits and polished shoes.

We then went and visited several preschool classroom.  The preschool had over 250 students and 3 classrooms…so if you do the math….about 80 students per class.  Imagine a medium sized classroom, with benches offering the only seating in the room, and 4 to 5 students on each bench.  We were lucky enough to be able to read books to the children.  They all were adorable, with their bright eyes. 

Very few spoke English, but they were all attentive to our students reading them books.  It truly was mind-blowing to consider the situation of 80 preschool aged children in one classroom with one teacher, having lessons in English when they themselves don’t speak it- complete ESL classroom, focusing on developing a few English words in those 4 year olds.

My camera soon opened doors…  I was taking photos of my students around the camp, but soon the camp children all wanted their photos taken.  Their favorite was to see the photo on the LCD display right after taking it!  The poses were the same ones, holding each other by the shoulders, big bright smiles, and also the odd gangsta signs.  The clothes looked a little bit or a lot used.  In a dire situation, fashion becomes a non-issue and boys and girls don’t care what they wear as long as they have something on.  My favorite one was probably the little 4 year old girl in preschool wearing her pink “princess dress” and the boy wearing flannel pajamas all day long.  It was heartbreaking to see them with holes, ripped shirts, broken shoes, filthy clothing…  Those children have done nothing to deserve growing up in those conditions.  Some don’t even know anything else than the refugees camp life, as their parents fled their home country years ago and may have lived at the camp for years already.

In order to foster the bourgeoning relationship between the two schools, a soccer game was organized, on a dirt field, with brand new goal posts (made of two wooden poles and a rope nailed between the two..these were especially installed for our visit!) 

Our students were on one side; some of the camp kids wore soccer uniforms and were ready to play.  The players were on the field, and all around the hundreds of children stood by watching and cheering the players.  At half time, at the blow of the whistle, a large group of kids rushed to the middle of the field.  I was thinking the game is over, but I was completely mistaken!  The players took their soccer clothes off and passed them on to other kids…who in turn go dressed and ready to play on.  A true collaborative effort!  When our BMIS kids scored a goal, the crowd cheered them out very loudly!  It just was genuine sportsmanship, cheering and encouraging.

We concluded the visit with a tour in the camp itself, and saw how they make the mud bricks, how they lay out the outline of a new house, then built its walls and finish the roof with sticks, covered with plastic tarp and finally finished off with straw.  The children were asking about bathrooms, sinks and tubs in the houses and were surprised when they were told that the houses did not have running water.  Although a good bit of the children are from Malawi, they live a pretty sheltered life and may not be aware of the living conditions of many people living in the country.

Today was, to say the least, a different school day, an eye opener for me, on the living and schooling conditions of children in the refugees camp.  I have to admit that I expected worse living conditions, with temporary tents set up and filth all over…  This camp looked more like a big village, with mud brik houses and straw roofs,  with pathways kept up rather clean and the children having school in brick building with concrete floors and large windows bringing day light.  What shocked me was how SAD the children looked,  how their eyes were not smiling and how neglected their overall look was.  I asked and most of those kids live with their parents/extended families and are taken care off, to some extent.  I guess I would be sad too if I lived in similar conditions, never knowing when I can have a good meal, or when I can go home..wherever home is!

The biggest, brightest eyes...and what future?

Movie Night

Last Friday night, we had a movie night at our friends’ house. I know, it may sound lame, but after living in Saudi with no movie theater, we are now in Lilongwe, again with no movie theater. And all downloads and DVDs won’t make you not miss a movie on a big screen.

The set up was great! A white bed sheet hanging from the roof, a projector and speakers, a laptop loaded with latest releases… and we all enjoyed Cars 2 and Kung Fu Panda 2 on a big screen, outside, laying in the grass and sitting in lounge chair, eating popcorn and drinking wine. Can’t beat that!