Dzaleka Refugee Camp



This quote was on the blackboard in one of the preschool classrooms.  It broke my heart.

During a unit on architecture, the year 3 students wanted to see how houses can be build in an eco-friendly way, using the local resources and not requiring electricity powered tools. The partner of one of our teachers works at the Dzaleka Refugees Camp. The Dzaleka refugee camp is operated by the UN High Commission for Refugees and has been opened for almost 20 years, at first taking in refugees fromMozambique in the 1980s. Now the camp inhabitants mostly come from D.R. Congo, Rwanda, Burundi, Ethiopia, and Somalia. theonly refugee camp in Malawi where they also run an eco-friendly program, teaching the refugees how to build houses in such a manner. Since we had that connection, we were able to organize a visit. We also had started a partnership with the primary school there; having donated used leveled readers for their brand new library. So, the field trip was the occasion for our students to not only learn about architecture, but to see how the donated books were being used and the difference they would make to the students’ education.

When we arrived, having barely stepped out of the two buses, we were surrounded by a sea of school-aged children.  The kids were curious, greeted us, trying out some of their English on us.  Our students were quite intimidated by the attention.  Between the 6 adult chaperons, our 53 students were barely kept contained…  Our worry was to loose one, which could have happened real fast.  The camp children all wanted to see us, to look at us, to touch us, to shake our hands.  I don’t think I’d ever felt this claustrophobic in a crowd!  The longer we stood still, the narrower the circle of children became and the close our students huddled together.

We attended a welcoming ceremony during which the headmaster of the schools, wearing a formal suit and tie, thanked the students and the teachers of Bishop Mackenzie International School for the generous donation of books, and for us visiting the camp.   The situation was quite comical; the headmaster had a megaphone and was giving his speech, the crowd was huge and all around us, our students weren’t sure how to handle all the attention.  We had warned them that this may happen, but we had not anticipated such attraction!  We toured the brand new library, saw our donated books, even went into the teachers’ lounge where mostly men were planning their lessons, all dressed in full suits and polished shoes.

We then went and visited several preschool classroom.  The preschool had over 250 students and 3 classrooms…so if you do the math….about 80 students per class.  Imagine a medium sized classroom, with benches offering the only seating in the room, and 4 to 5 students on each bench.  We were lucky enough to be able to read books to the children.  They all were adorable, with their bright eyes. 

Very few spoke English, but they were all attentive to our students reading them books.  It truly was mind-blowing to consider the situation of 80 preschool aged children in one classroom with one teacher, having lessons in English when they themselves don’t speak it- complete ESL classroom, focusing on developing a few English words in those 4 year olds.

My camera soon opened doors…  I was taking photos of my students around the camp, but soon the camp children all wanted their photos taken.  Their favorite was to see the photo on the LCD display right after taking it!  The poses were the same ones, holding each other by the shoulders, big bright smiles, and also the odd gangsta signs.  The clothes looked a little bit or a lot used.  In a dire situation, fashion becomes a non-issue and boys and girls don’t care what they wear as long as they have something on.  My favorite one was probably the little 4 year old girl in preschool wearing her pink “princess dress” and the boy wearing flannel pajamas all day long.  It was heartbreaking to see them with holes, ripped shirts, broken shoes, filthy clothing…  Those children have done nothing to deserve growing up in those conditions.  Some don’t even know anything else than the refugees camp life, as their parents fled their home country years ago and may have lived at the camp for years already.

In order to foster the bourgeoning relationship between the two schools, a soccer game was organized, on a dirt field, with brand new goal posts (made of two wooden poles and a rope nailed between the two..these were especially installed for our visit!) 

Our students were on one side; some of the camp kids wore soccer uniforms and were ready to play.  The players were on the field, and all around the hundreds of children stood by watching and cheering the players.  At half time, at the blow of the whistle, a large group of kids rushed to the middle of the field.  I was thinking the game is over, but I was completely mistaken!  The players took their soccer clothes off and passed them on to other kids…who in turn go dressed and ready to play on.  A true collaborative effort!  When our BMIS kids scored a goal, the crowd cheered them out very loudly!  It just was genuine sportsmanship, cheering and encouraging.

We concluded the visit with a tour in the camp itself, and saw how they make the mud bricks, how they lay out the outline of a new house, then built its walls and finish the roof with sticks, covered with plastic tarp and finally finished off with straw.  The children were asking about bathrooms, sinks and tubs in the houses and were surprised when they were told that the houses did not have running water.  Although a good bit of the children are from Malawi, they live a pretty sheltered life and may not be aware of the living conditions of many people living in the country.

Today was, to say the least, a different school day, an eye opener for me, on the living and schooling conditions of children in the refugees camp.  I have to admit that I expected worse living conditions, with temporary tents set up and filth all over…  This camp looked more like a big village, with mud brik houses and straw roofs,  with pathways kept up rather clean and the children having school in brick building with concrete floors and large windows bringing day light.  What shocked me was how SAD the children looked,  how their eyes were not smiling and how neglected their overall look was.  I asked and most of those kids live with their parents/extended families and are taken care off, to some extent.  I guess I would be sad too if I lived in similar conditions, never knowing when I can have a good meal, or when I can go home..wherever home is!

The biggest, brightest eyes...and what future?

Movie Night

Last Friday night, we had a movie night at our friends’ house. I know, it may sound lame, but after living in Saudi with no movie theater, we are now in Lilongwe, again with no movie theater. And all downloads and DVDs won’t make you not miss a movie on a big screen.

The set up was great! A white bed sheet hanging from the roof, a projector and speakers, a laptop loaded with latest releases… and we all enjoyed Cars 2 and Kung Fu Panda 2 on a big screen, outside, laying in the grass and sitting in lounge chair, eating popcorn and drinking wine. Can’t beat that!

Walking

Lilongwe, and Malawi as a whole, is experiencing a diesel and petrol shortage at this time!  It’s not due to a lack of oil…but it’s due to a lack of foreign exchange to purchase that oil from suppliers outside of Malawi.  So, everyone is dealing with it in different ways. 

We are using the car much much less, walking everywhere we can and only using the tank for grocery shopping.  Others who don’t live as close to school as we do, bike to work, carpool or just bite the bullet and drive.  This Friday, one of the teachers asked for help…She had managed to drive herself to school, but her car totally ran out of gas at the parking lot and she was looking for a couple of liters so she could drive herself back home! 

The school has started a daily petrol and diesel run with jerry cans.  Last week, some drivers were in lines all week and only got petrol and diesel once!  Those who were lucky enough to have a jerry can in that bus each received 5 liters!!!

Others choose to purchase on the black market, at a price double or triple what you would pay at the pump.

We hope to be able to drive out of Malawi during the Christmas break, with enough diesel to get us to the other side of the frontier and fill up as soon as we can.  That’s also hoping we can get for-ex from the bank…that’s another challenge! (read the previous banking blog if you want to understand what this means)

Waiting for the Rain

For the past few weeks, the temperatures have been warm/hot/unbearable, depending on who was talking and where they have lived before!  The thermometer recorded up to 36C in the shade, so yes, it’s been pretty hot… but after the desert temperature in Riyadh reaching mid to upper 40s this was not too hot! 

The houses and the school are not equipped with AC, so it did get hot in there, under the bearing sun, but cross ventilation by opening windows really helped cool the rooms down.  At night, we used fans blowing air on us..and that really helped.  Nonetheless it’s been warm at night and we haven’t been sleeping too well!

All these high temperatures are leading to the rainy season…and for the past few days, the news outlets have been announcing rain.  Since Wednesday, we’ve been actively waiting, spotting clouds.  We’ve heard thunder a couple of times throughout the day today and NOW, FINALLY, it’s raining.  The air has that dusty rain smell, you know the one after a long period of no rain…  The temperature has cooled down a bit already…

We hear the pitter patter of the rain on the tin roof!  Can’t wait for the morning, to see the yard all clean and greener than it’s been!

Meeting a Peace Corps Volunteer

At the conference I met Anna, a young 24 year old American Peace Corps volunteer based in Busia, Kenya.  Her two-year assignment consists of teaching deaf children in a small village 14 hours mini bus ride away from Nairobi.  She’s the only American white female in her village, and with her long blond hair, fair skin and blue eyes, she’s sure to be noticed anywhere she goes. 

She teaches deaf children who, for some, have been kept away by their families and have had no schooling, so her students ages range from 5 to 28!  She frequently goes through the village and looks for other deaf students, for whom she either finds sponsors  or even sponsors herself.  I’m not sure of the exact number but tuition for one year for one student is less than $50.00.  Not much when you consider your weekly grocery bill or your internet for the month!

Her housing is provided by her school, right on the school ground…  She says herself that a piece of plywood separates her from her girls!  You talk about total lack of privacy, constant contact with her students.  She sure doesn’t lack enthusiasm and passion for her students’ education.  She’s becoming fluent in Kenyan sign language – and even in some of the village versions, as each family develops their own sign system when they have no deaf schooling!

At the same time, she sounds so blasé about major issues, such as STD, AIDS and rape.  STDs are rampid in rural Africa and are often misunderstood.  The village people would rather listen to the local witch doctor who tells them that you can’t catch anything if you eat this or drink that!  Also, common belief is that young virgins will cure you of any STDs – which brings the case of sexual abuse!

She told me that since she’s been at the school, she knows of two instances where an older boy (remember some of her students are 25 year old men!) forced himself on a 10 or 12 year old.  The last time was just last week when she noticed a 10-year-old girl had dirt all over her back and in her hair.  Upon questioning, that little girl told Anna what had happened to her.  My first response was: “So, what did the police do?”.  She laughed, said they don’t intervene in the villages in cases such as those!   All they did was talk with the boy, tell him it’s not right and he shouldn’t do that again!  Isn’t that insane?

Anna is a special person.  She lives in physical isolation from other expats, although she has internet and email/facebook and skype contacts almost daily.  

She’s young, only 24 years old, but already so mature and driven!   She sure isn't in this for the money, as her monthly "salary" is $200!!!  I can’t say I’ve met many people her age like her!  Check out her blog, where she narrates some of her adventures..    Anna's blog

Nairobi-Lilongwe

I just returned from a conference in Nairobi and the quickest way back is on Kenya Airlines, whose hub is Nairobi and who flies all over Africa!  Seems pretty simple enough…  One plane, no connection, just an easy flight, right?  Well, not quite!  Since, depending of the day you fly,  the flight Nairobi-Lilongwe has two routes: either it’s a direct OR it has a stop in Lusaka, Zambia.  So, a flight that takes two hours and a half end up may take almost four and a half hours with the stop over in Lusaka.  It gives you time to catch up on your reading or take a nap… 

The 45 minutes stop in Lusaka is quite interesting!   As soon as some of the passengers disembark in Lusaka, the cleaning crew walks in and goes about cleaning the cabin, around the passengers, under their feet, vacuuming, dusting and picking up the trash.  You got to see it to believe if-and they are quick and pretty effective!

Heart attack narrowly avoided!

I almost had a heart attack yesterday!  I’m OK, but it deserves some explanation!

The children had been invited to a birthday party yesterday afternoon and we were ready to leave, had the tank’s keys in hand and were about to load up!  Francisco, the gardener, calls to get my attention and says “Look at Pele (our big black lab)

So, Emma, Alex and I all three look at Pele who is proudly sitting in the middle of the driveway, holding a HUGE spinny lizard in her mouth!  You may know that I don’t like critters…even less when I don’t expect them!  Of course, Emma and I start screaming…even louder when Pele moves toward us and you can see the lizard still wiggling in her mouth.  She’s so proud of herself!  She’s caught a lizard and wants to show it off to us.  She moves closer, drops the lizard at our feet and sits!  Of course, the lizard tries to make an escape, Pele jumps on it, grabs it back…and does it again, drop, sits, stares at us…  all the while Emma and I are still screaming at the thing! 

Francisco saved us!  He grabbed his broom and a dustpan, swept the now badly injured and almost dead lizard and dumped it all in the trash…

What emotions that little thing caused…and a good story for the birthday party!