Mumbo Island Paradise

This is about as close to paradise as you can get!  Mumbo Island  is situated off the beach resort of Cape Maclear, off the shore of Southern Lake Malawi.  The water around the water are crystal-clear and offer an amazing snorkelling (and if you can diving) location!  

The luxury, yet rustic cabins are perched on rocks high above the water, each with its own shaded view-deck and hammock, offering sweeping views of the lake.  

Spending a couple of days there is the most relaxing way of  chilling, swimming, relaxing, sunbathing, birdwatching, and enjoying the vista.  No power, no computers or cell phones to interrupt your time on the island.

I went there with a group and we had the best time, snorkeling, swimming, riding the boat around the island, swimming among the fish, and at night taking all part in a murder mystery!  

Next time, if there is a next time, a nice romantic getaway would be nice!

A different way of life

This poster used to be posted at international arrivals at Kamuzu International Airport, informing women of the dress code in Malawi back in the old days, up to about 15 years ago.  

Modesty was crucial.

Things have changed quite a bit since then, but modesty is still important, with the advice given that women do not show too much above the knee.  Actually, you will still see many women wearing a pair of trousers that they cover up with a chitenche (African Printed fabric)  wrap.

There is even a rumor that immigration officers would go through suitcases and remove trousers or skirts deemed too short!  

Something not mentioned on the poster was that men had to have short hair....  Rumors fly that immigration officers would keep a pair of scissors to snip men's hair if it was deemed too long to adhere to the expected short hair rule.

Thank goodness things have changed a bit since then, although with the variety of the colorful chitenche fabric it wouldn't be too much of a burden to have to wrap up...  I still believe it would be the black abaya I had to wear for two years while living in Saudi Arabia :-)

Breathtaking

Malawi has offered the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets I've had the privilege of witnessing...  Doesn't really matter where I am or what I do, but dusk and  dawn just offer magical sights on a fairly regular basis....  Here are just a few...  Enjoy!

Camouflage Moth

Probably one of the best camouflaged insects.. Except this one had decided to land on the concrete floor!  Just imagine it among the leaves of a small bush or bigger tree!  Invisible!

Lilongwe Cricket Club Alendo Rally 2013

Talk about fun!  One Saturday morning in May, two friends and I boarded a decked out land-rover decorated for the occasion and took part in the Lilongwe Cricket Club Alendo Car Rally. The goal of the day was to navigate without getting sidetracked or last on dirt roads for over 70 kms around Lilongwe.  Our team were named "The Victorious Secret", we were all glamed-up, car included!

Rally was not just driving around...  that would have been just too easy.  We also had a list of clues that led to specific points to photograph.  During the whole day we deciphered the clues written as poems as we were driving around.  Among the many clues, one had to do with the presidential palace, another one with Madonna's school that didn't pan out, one about a specific hair salon/barber shop and one with the power supply towers...  Those were a lot of fun and we were truly admiring the cricket guys who actually wrote all those clues in poem forms.

Along the way we had three stops: target shooting, tire chance and a bicycle challenge.  Of course, those had been kept secret till you actually arrived on the spot of the challenge.
Target shooting was done by using sling shots, small rocks and aiming at various size containers.  One of our team did well with this.
The tire change was also just that: changing a tire under a certain amount of time.  To our credit, the team did well, considering that none of us had really changed a tire completely without help.  We were dressed in black slacks, white tops, healed shoes and were all wearing pearls. AND we did change the tire, unlike many other teams who elected to "pay a bribe" to get points for work they didn't do.

The third, and last, challenge was the most physically demanding... One of us, me in this instance, had to ride a bike around a football/soccer field, with a child from the village sitting on the bike as well.  It was a little tricky as the turns were pretty sharp, but again, we finished the challenge, not first but not last either!

When we arrived back at the Cricket Club, the atmosphere was electric:  every team had to show their solved riddles photographs, then all had to wait for the prize giving ceremony...  The wait ended up totally being worth it:  The Victorious Secret won a dinner for 4 at one of the best restaurants/steakhouses for best named team. We hollered and hooted for the winners of various categories...  and even for the grand prize winner, a two guys team who won 200,000 MK (570 USD) at the big box store Game (the South African Wal-Mart)

Overall a great day!  Can't wait for next year ;-)

Already two years!

Wow, I can't believe it's already been almost two years since we moved to Malawi.  So much has happened in the past 24 months, while it seems it's truly been a few months.  Time flies when you're having fun!  Emma and Alex have grown a lot, physically and mentally, while I've had the chance to work and live in one of the most beautiful countries (and one of the best kept secrets) in Africa!
Malawi offers the best of it all: plains, plateaus, mountains, hills, National Park and safaris, and let's not forget its largest attraction the majestic Lake Malawi.

I'm currently on holiday back in the USA and have the joy to visit with friends who are all wanting to hear about what it's like to live in the middle of Africa, how we deal with water and power cuts, with lack of petrol and diesel at times, with shortages in foreign currencies...  Well, you know, honestly, you learn to live with that and you adapt.  The pace of life in Malawi is much more relaxed than in the west, a commute to work for me (and the children) is at worst 10 minute walk and not having to fight any kind of traffic on the way to work.

For those who know me, I think Malawi has succeeded in calming me down...  I know, some may snicker at that, but it has!  There is no point to worry endlessly about what could happen.  Just take it one day at the time and it will all work out!  Live in the now!  Tomorrow will be soon enough to discover the future.

Being back in the USA is a little overwhelming.  I'm trying to do a good bit of shopping for stuff you can't buy in Malawi, but going from store to store is just too much!  The shelving is so packed with a multitude of choices...  How on earth do people ever get to do their grocery shopping in one hour.  I've been limiting myself to one store at the time...

Oh, and for those who don't know, I've signed another 2 year contract, so we will be back for more African adventures, and I will try to post more regularly to the blog...  Haven't been doing too good the last few months..  So stay tuned for more.

Bikes, bikes and more bikes

The other day a sight to be hold was happening right by my house: a huge load of bikes was being transported. And when I say huge I mean an entire 18 wheeler loaded with bikes, stacked on top of each other.
We had to stop to snap the pictures and inquirie about the bikes. They were brand new, straight from India and to be sold in area 2. The tires were new and not yet inflated.
How many happy people will they make?
I wonder how long it will take me before I spot some around Lilongwe?

Feeding the crocs

One of my friends lives out in the country and has the distinct provilege of having a croc enclosure in his backyard! How many people do you know who keep crocs as "pets"? Granted, he's renting the house and didn't totally choose to have those crocs in his backyard, but they came with the house!
From the stories told about those crocs, eggs were found over 10 years ago on the shore of Lake Malawi by the owners of the house who picked them up, incubated them and saw over 10 crocs hatch! Out of that bunch only three remain!
But boy, are those things intimidating or what? They are kept in an enclosure with a pond, bushes and mud, the perfect environment to lounge in the sun all day and take a quick dip when too hot!
The crocs are fed about four kilos of meat once a week. After rattling the gate to the enclosure, their keeper aims and throws the food towards their mouths!
Feeding time is truly a sight to be seen, with those three predators lurking in the water and moving so quickly to catch their food! As I am watching this feeding, all I can think is that I am glad those three reptiles are on the other side of the fence and that I hope none of them will escape, again, as it seems one did a runner once, only to be caught quickly and safely put back into the enclosure!
Yet another first in Malawi: feeding your pet crocs ;-)

What on earth?

What on earth are those things? Simply the wings of flying ants! Those insects just appear out of nowhere, fly in swarms and, before they actually get used to flying, loose their wings and turn into crawling ants!
Finding the list wings in the morning when you open your door is quite baffling, at least the first time!

Yet another critter

It is quite common to see lizards, geckos and all kinds and sizes of a ants. Lately we've also seen "flying ants" who loose their wings mid flight and are an extremely sought after delicacy! Just the other day, at the market, they were being sold roasted- right next to the cucumbers!

This one pictured right above, though, still left me scratching my head. It's the prettiest beetle I've seen in a long time. Its blue and yellow shell may not be the best camouflage but it does pop on photos!
If you know its name or can find it, let me know. I've done a quick search, without too much success!

A Green, please!

Go to any bar or restaurant and you can order a Green. So what is this famous Green? It's a bottle of ordinary Carlsberg beer, brewed in Malawi. Officially opened on 14th December 1968 , Carlsberg Malawi Brewery Limited (CMBL) was the first Carlsberg brewery outside Denmark. Up to this day, it is still the only brewing and beer packaging facility in Malawi and still owns a 97 percent market share! It's a
Complete Carlsberg monopoly in the country.
Being from Belgium myself you'd think I am a beer connoisseur.. I like a beer once in a while but not the ordinary beer. I'm more of a Jupiler, Kriek or Hoegaarden type of girl.
Nonetheless, I've tried drinking a Green and really just don't care for it. I think for one it has to do with what I perceive an inconsistency quality.
Even the bottles are inconsistent! Check out the photo- same bar, same crate, two bottle designs!
Most people here do enjoy their Green... Unless there is a shortage, which has happened a few times in the past year! Those shortages don't make people happy.
So next time you're in Malawi, grab a Green, have a sundowner with friends and enjoy the Warm Heart of Africa!

Ant invasion

Since I moved into my new place I've been fighting ants wanting to come hang in my kitchen. There is a door directly going outside and the problem is that it's completely flush to the outside. So ants don't have any obstacle preventing them from joining me in the house.
After trying to use sprays I had to resort to the heavy stuff: poison chalk and killer powder! I wasn't sure they were going to work, but boy was I wrong.
I treated the entire area almost 3 weeks ago. Since then everyday I am brushing off dead ants! It's like it's a never ending supply!!
While I was gone for 6 days on a business trip no one cleaned up the ants. Check out of the photos. They are pretty graphic!!
Âmes sensibles, s'abstenir!!

Obstructed view

This morning on our way to school, the children and I saw this man, carrying the biggest load of hay. It was so big you couldn't even see his head.

There's something to say about sunsets!

Ever since I've been here sunsets have taken on a life of their own. I marvel at their beauty and magnificence. It doesn't matter where you are, it will be gorgeous. This picture here was taken today on my walk home from work.... A picture is worth a thousand words, so enjoy!

Police escort

Early early this morning I flew back to Lilongwe after a quick business trip to Madagascar. I was aboard the "Nairobi- Lusaka- Lilongwe- Nairobi Express" a night flight that takes forever. Upon arrival at Kamuzu International Airport, my driver wasn't there to pick me up. A quick call confirmed that he was asleep in bed, but he quickly said he'd be on his way. So I had to wait about 20 minutes for him to get there. At 1:00 in the afternoon the airport arrival is full of activity, but at 2:00 in the morning it's quite dead and empty. I sat down on a bench and hoped he would arrive quickly.
Upon seeing me on the bench a couple of police asked me if I needed help. I told them my driver was on the way. So what did they do?
They just sat themselves on the bench next to me and waited with me until the driver arrived. They didn't have to do that, but knew how empty the place was. It was a reassuring and very welcomed move on their part. Zikomo Malawi Police!

Land and Lakes Café

Have an hour to spare on a Saturday morning? Go check out the new location of Land and Lakes Safari and have a morning tea at their little cafe. Nice menu, good apple pie... And very fashionable teapot cozies!
It's located on Laws avenue right by old town.
Enjoy

That's just a big ol' cat!

This afternoon the children and I went to a Braai at the wildlife centre. After eating and visiting with friends we went for the tour of the animals. Our guide Winnie was amazing. She went all the way to where Bella, the one eyed lioness was hiding and, by calling her name, had Bella follow her all the way to where we were all standing. Bella is an old lioness who was rescued from bad treatment in Roumania. She had a cataract and completely lost her eye. Anyways today Bella was following Winnie, purring as she moved along the fence and even rolling on the ground, hoping for some good belly rubs. That was probably one of the coolest animal encounters we have had. My son Alex was standing ther, mesmerized by Bella and said it best:"she's just a big ol'cat, that Bella!". One moment to treasure for sure!

Gallantry

Funny how little things mean a lot. This early evening I was walking home and past three guys chatting. One was holding his bike as he was visiting with his friends. Upon seeing me pass them, this man lifted his hat and told me good evening! I know it sounds old fashioned but that gesture was cool and so not done anymore. How many guys actually still wear hats?

What's that on the ground?

Waking is one of my favorite ways of seeing a city, as it gives you a direct feel for what the locals see and how walkers interact with the city, its streets, vehicles and people.
Lilongwe is a rather pedestrian friendly city as its the most use way of getting around and most streets, although they don't have "official" sidewalks, have much trodden dirt paths used as sidewalks.
Unfortunately trash does lie around and a closer look turns out quite surprising items, the most surprising one being the little alcohol one gulp packets. They litter every street.
So yes, it is possible to get one shot of your favorite spirit on the go and to swallow it on the side of the steer! Different for sure but I have seen stranger!

Balancing act

Oftentimes when riding or walking around town you will see bicycles transporting various items, ranging from baskets, fire wood, chickens or even live goats. Mind you, the goats are attached on a narrow plank, which is then attached to the bike.
This morning I saw what appeared to be the heaviest load I'd seen being moved on a bike. This guy had bravely ( or foolishly) strapped 4 super heavy charcoal bags to the back of his bike. His load was so heavy as well as extremely unstable that he couldn't ride the bike and was pushing it instead. Je also managed to slow down traffic as cars could not see what was directly coming and has to swerve around him.
That's the way a lot of goods are transported within a city, village or even between close- by villages. The bicycle is THE most used mode of transportation in the country, for easily understandable reasons: a bike is rather inexpensive to purchase and to maintain, it doesn't require petrol or diesel (and we all know these can be hell to come by at times) and is easily kept inside the houses, away from a potential thief!
I will be on the lookout for more bikes transporting a variety of items to snap their pic and post them here!